3 March 2020

Coronavirus - should I travel to Italy?

Anything anyone can write about coronavirus and its impact on travel may be out-of-date and redundant within 24 hours, but for what it's worth here are my thoughts, and my answers to questions I've been asked. I've been a resident of Italy, a traveller to Italy and make a living from tourism in Italy so see the problems from several angles. I'm not an expert so these are just my personal reflections.

Would you travel to Italy now?

It depends.

Museums and attractions which were closed are re-opening, or desperate to do so, albeit with restrictions. After initial national panic over the virus spread, the tourist industry in Italy realised the terrible threat it is under and is keen to maintain normality. Italians who depend upon foreign tourism for their living are naturally keen to point out that it is (mostly) business as normal in their particular areas. Realistically, though, travellers from overseas have a lot more complex issues.

Governments are issuing warnings and flights are being cut, so some visitors won't have a choice but to cancel. There are realistic risks, quite apart from catching the virus yourself - which may be the least of some travellers' concerns. Travel plans will be hostage to fortune, and travel insurers may not be much help in all situations. Do I risk being quarantined away from home, in a foreign town, at an airport or in a chaotic hotel situation? Am I happy to entrust myself to the local healthcare system? By the time I return, might I be quarantined or expected to self-isolate for two weeks or more? What impact would this have on my life and family? Is it irresponsible to risk transporting contagion to a home country where it may not yet be rife? What if I am in a vulnerable category myself, or my friends and family are? Will I be vilified as a super-spreader in a Daily Mail hate campaign? How essential is my travel anyway? These are the kinds of questions which a traveller might be asking.

I travelled from Italy well before the dates currently of concern, and before there was any particular reason to worry - although no-one seems sure yet when the virus actually started circulating under the radar. Once in England, perfectly well, I spent time with elderly vulnerable relatives and acquaintances, with friends, with children, travelled by public transport, ate out, went to the theatre. When cases in Italy hit the news, and I developed a mildly sore throat, it was a sobering moment. I wasn't officially at risk and was told it was highly unlikely I had coronavirus. I knew this, but thinking back over the contacts I'd had in the preceding week made me reflect on what might have happened and how I'd have felt about it, especially if I had taken a known risk, however slight.

Spritz on the beach in winter, Venice
So I take travellers' concerns seriously. If I had a trip to Italy booked in the next few weeks, I would still consider going. It would depend on my reasons for travelling, my situation and plans for the time after my return, and perhaps my destination. I'd keep up-to-date with the news, my airline, my government's advice and my travel insurers. If I were to go I'd be prepared for possible disruption in Italy, or at home on my return. I'd be prepared to self-isolate if advisable at that point. I know of several people whose employers have insisted they stay away from work after returning from northern Italy - not from lockdown zones, but from elsewhere in those regions. I'd be very careful of hygiene - as a germaphobe this is second nature to me anyway - and follow any local rules and restrictions, such as keeping a distance from other people.

Would you book travel to Italy for later this year?


At the moment no-one knows what the situation will be anywhere in the world in a few months time. Civilisation as we know it may have broken down. Everything might be back (almost) to normal. International travel might be severely restricted. Or the spread of the virus may be so wide that limitations on movement become pointless. The most cautious option is to see what happens and book summer travel later, at short notice - there will probably still be plenty of availability, and you can do some research, book time off work and be ready with ideas and provisional plans to keep your spirits up in the meantime. Or, like me, you could book now and keep your fingers crossed. The fewer people who book, the more likely flights are to be reduced, and the more trouble the Italian tourist industry will be in. I'd suggest checking your travel insurance - if you don't have any, take it out before you book - and your refund options if you decide to go ahead. I'll be doing this and having a look at flight prices from May/June onwards (I only rule April out as I'm busy elsewhere). I'll probably book flights soon, and if I book accommodation, make sure it is on a fully-refundable basis. And of course, be prepared for change.

Asolo in the Veneto in May

No travel is risk-free

There are always risks to travel, although it may generally be only cautious people and germaphobes who think much about them. Italy is vulnerable to earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, landslides, flooding, infrastructure collapse as well as more mundane risks such as road traffic accidents. People have died from all of these in recent years. I've experienced earthquakes and, more seriously for me, caught infections while travelling, including a nasty three-week bug probably contracted on a journey between Sicily and London last year. You can't avoid all risks, just be aware of them, consider what degree of risk you're prepared to take, take precautions to minimise risk or mitigate outcomes, and be ready to adjust to changing scenarios. Make choices you are comfortable with. This applies with coronavirus as well as all the other hazards of travel.

If you don't want to travel or make definite plans now, why not start daydreaming about your next destination? Or you could get a fix of Italy through reading books set in Italy or watch a good Italian film - enjoy Italy vicariously until you can next get there.

Me? I'm considering a southern trip, an island holiday, and of course returning to Venice. And maybe I'll get through some of my Italy reading pile in the meantime.

Volcano tourism: Approaching the active volcano Stromboli

The island of Giglio, Tuscany, last September

4 July 2019

Stromboli - a fiery attraction

Violence, terror and the fiery wrath of the planet - yesterday's explosions prompt the question of why humans are drawn to volcano tourism

Our boat was one of several bobbing up and down in the twilight offshore from the great grey scar which runs down the flank of Stromboli, the Sciara del Fuoco. It was ten years ago, and I was visiting the Aeolian islands for the first time. Most of the passengers on the open top deck had their cameras out, pointed upwards into the gloom. The wait seemed a long one, maybe a quarter of an hour. The Italian man in front of me began exhorting the volcano: 'Come on, Stromboli, come ON.' Then, what we had all been waiting for: a flash of red high up on the mountainside, the night illuminated by a fountain of fire. Glowing bombs ejected from the crater crashed onto the Sciara del Fuoco, then bounced down towards the sea in a cascade of dust ending in small splashes close to the shore.

There were cheers and celebrations from the ecstatic passengers. I think there was even applause. We waited there for another firework display. The crew handed around little plastic beakers of the sweet Aeolian island wine, Malvasia. We all toasted the volcano. Then it was time for home, and the small fleet of tourist boats switched on their engines and ploughed across the moonlit sea towards their respective island harbours. It was one of the strangest tourist experiences I've ever encountered.

Since that first visit I've returned to Stromboli and stayed on the island a couple of times. It is a very strange, unique place, its slopes green with vegetation, yellow with flowers, and grey-black with lava. The black sand beaches, the blindingly white houses, the shockingly colourful blooms cascading over walls, the blue, blue Sicilian sky and sea and then the great slopes of the volcano overhead make a vivid and compelling picture. I explored a cave by the sea said to be the home of the mythical ruler of winds, Aeolus. Stromboli has been the lighthouse of the Mediterranean for millennia; this is an elemental place where myth and superstition are always close at hand. On the cliffs above are some of the island's most expensive homes, coolly whitewashed villas behind discreet bougainvillea-covered walls. Italy's former president used to spend summers here, and villa owners include designers Dolce and Gabbana. There is something about the island's contrasts, its extremes, which lures visitors like a siren's song. The primitive, and the sophisticated, the elemental and the artificial inhabiting the same sun-heated space. Vehicle traffic is minimal on the island, and the nights are dark, and quiet. Yet high above the craters of this active volcano are sending their fireworks heavenward several times every hour.

The craters and eruptions can't be seen from the main settlement on the island, which is in the safest location it can be, given it is on an actively erupting volcano. But it is impossible to be unaware of the dangers, ever. There are signs posting to evacuation areas, places of hopeful refuge above sea level, a helicopter landing pad.

It says something about human nature and our relationship with the elements that Stromboli is the great tourist attraction of the area. Every day boats chug across the sea bringing tourists in their hundreds from the other Aeolian islands, Sicily and mainland Italy, all heading towards an active volcano to get as close to eruptions as they can. Souvenirs here are blazoned with images of the volcano; posters offer crater excursions, hiking gear hire, and boat trips to the Sciara del Fuoco. Every afternoon scores of tourists assemble by the church in walking kit to be led by guides up the steep mountainside to a viewpoint above the active craters where they will watch the volcano spitting fire at dusk.

As well as from the sea, I've viewed the eruptions from a pizzeria (read on to find out more) and even been lucky enough during a BA night flight to see the dull red bloom of Stromboli erupting below. The nearest I've got to the eruptions was last year, when I set off on a solo volcano exploration. The route up to the craters is out of bounds unless you're climbing with an official guide, but a lower-level footpath offers a safer and less demanding excursion. I trekked up the beginning of the crater route, somewhat surprised to find that there were no obvious signs nor barricades marking the branch-off for the main ascent. Presumably this is to make it harder for reckless tourists attempting to climb alone. Only a gap in the undergrowth and marks in the dry earth from hundreds of booted feet betrayed the route taken by the afternoon's parties. I continued along my contouring path. I had not yet encountered a soul when I found myself in an eerie overgrown graveyard. High above the village, this cemetery may have been abandoned, I speculated, after eruptions in the 1930s led to a depopulation and a general move towards the 'security' of the main settlement. It was an evocative spot, and a sobering moment of realisation that I was completely alone, on the slopes of an active volcano, in this strange world.

The path wound on, dipping into gullies and climbing ridges. I overtook a few other hikers, including some Germans carefully photographing a giant caper plant. Twilight was getting nearer when I began to hear, intermittently, a low dull boom. It took me a while to realise that this must be the grumblings of the volcano. I was nearing the slopes beneath the active craters. The picturesque footpath emerged onto a paved mule path running up in zigzags alongside the great ashy Sciara del Fuoco. I climbed a short way, to a bend in the path which doubled as a viewpoint. A 14-strong English tour group were gathered with their guide. We all waited for the next burst of fire. Dusk was falling, and my blouse, soaked with sweat after the hike, began to chill me. A black puff emerged from a crater above. Cameras clicked and cheeped. Although there was still some light, enough to see the islands of Salina, Alicudi and Filicudi looking romantic in the misty sunset distance, the next eruption, a dramatic one, had red lava visible in its heart. As it died away, the debris scattering down the slope before us, the tour group turned their backs and began the descent. They were unlucky; as soon as they'd disappeared down the track a much bigger eruption set the remaining onlookers gasping. It was accompanied by the booming I'd heard earlier. Between the path and the main slope of the Sciara del Fuoco, I saw a goat grazing on a patch of grass among the rocks, impervious.

In one of the island's bizarre juxtapositions, eruption-viewing is often combined with pizza-eating. Far below, on the slope between this viewpoint and sea, looking over the Sciara del Fuoco, was the old volcano observatory now turned into a pizzeria, L'Osservatorio. And I had a booking. I strode down the long zigzag path at a liberating speed, and before too long I was seated with my vegetarian pizza and a glass of wine, watching and waiting for the next fiery explosion.

As night falls, one of Stromboli's other spectacles is presented to the diners at L'Osservatorio. The red eruptions high above are accompanied by small white fireworks, the camera flashes of the hiking groups on the high-level excursions. Once they've seen and photographed, the guides lead them rapidly down the slopes, a necklace of bobbing white head-torches marking out the zigzags of the path, a decorative illlustration of the bizarre sport of volcano tourism.

I walked back into the village alone, along a track that was even dustier than I remembered, following my torchlight between the tall reeds which cover these lower slopes. Emerging into the settlement, my way led along a pedestrian lane between the exclusive white villas of the Piscità district, past the unseen cave of Aeolus and back to my white-painted hotel facing over a black beach.

Next day, before leaving this strange and intimidating island, I took a boat trip to Ginostra, a picturesque hamlet in romantic isolation on the far side of the volcano. There are no vehicles here, and not many visitors. The handful of residents have been complaining this year about the state of their small harbour and questioning its suitability for any necessary evacuations. Yesterday, fiery bombs from the volcano's big explosion were reportedly falling on this end-of-the-world settlement, and setting the vegetation above on fire. News reports said that residents and tourists had barricaded themselves into houses, or taken to the sea in search of safety. Last year, when I visited, the only real reminders of the volcano were the steep slopes above and the abundant fertility of the orchard and allotments, and the only sound was the wind in the olive trees.

'Iddu', islanders call Stromboli. 'Him'. The volcano is a unique, elemental place: harsh but beautiful. The vivid island colours are underpinned by black volcanic lava, and its peace rests on the rumblings of volcanic activity. Looking at the larger picture, there are at least two or three volcanoes in Italy thought to represent a greater threat, but Stromboli's continual rumbling and spitting means that here the menace feels ever present. And news coverage of yesterday's eruption will have added to the volcano's formidable reputation. Edgy and exclusive at the same time, it's a holiday destination where visitors can get away from it all while at the same time risking everything. During my first visit, I couldn't understand why anyone would want to stay in such a manifestly dangerous place, own a holiday home, live here. But after spending more time on the island, I began to understand its strange, alarming appeal. Perhaps Stromboli offers something different to each of its visitors: gamblers, thrill-seekers, adventurers and existentialists. If you want to stare into the void and face up to the frailty of human existence in the face of, depending on your creed, the gods, or Nature, or Fate, there could hardly be a more fitting place.

On a practical note, assuming the volcanic activity settles into its typical pattern after yesterday's explosions, Stromboli can be a great place to visit - but be aware of the dangers. A good book for volcano visitors is The Volcano Adventure Guide (2005) by Rosaly Lopes https://www.amazon.co.uk/Volcano-Adventure-Guide-Rosaly-Lopes/dp/0521554535. There is always a certain level of risk, particularly for visitors who climb to the craters, which must only be done with a guide (hard hats or helmets are obligatory). And as this is an active volcano there is the possibility of larger explosions, like that of July 2019, and accompanying hazards like tidal waves and earthquakes. The volcano is monitored, the summit is closed off during periods of increased activity – which is very bad for tourism – and in theory there are evacuation plans. However none of this can guarantee security, and the most recent explosions were unpredicted.

I stay at the Sirenetta Park Hotel, a white-painted and welcoming complex with a swimming pool and a black beach right outside. I'd recommend an evening meal at L'Osservatorio, for the view of the eruptions rather than for the food. Aubergine arancini from Nonna Antonia in the village centre make a great snack or light lunch.